Solid Timber Table Tops

Furniture Care

Every piece of furniture you commission from Evostyle has been designed to last generations. However in order to keep your product in prime condition, we suggest you download this Furniture Care Instruction document, which has lots of detailed information on how to keep your finished product looking it's best. 

Evostyle Furniture Care Instructions

Timber

Each piece of timber is unique. As such, the natural colour or grain variations will cause the timber to react differently to different finishes. It is not uncommon to find several contrasts in the same piece of furniture.

The lighter pieces were closer to the tree's bark, the darker pieces were closer to the tree's centre. Grain variations and mineral deposits should not be viewed as flaws.
These natural markings have absolutely no effect on the furniture's durability or structural integrity. Knots and other characteristics are much like the nubs you find in such fine fabrics as silk and linen, true indications of genuine quality.

Protecting and Preserving Your Furniture

Your Evostyle furniture is an investment that should increase in value over time.  How much that value appreciates is dependent on how well you care for it, particularly for furniture with an oil finish.  It is essential to follow the instructions below to ensure that your furniture will provide a lifetime of service and enjoyment to your family.
Always test cleaning/polishing products in an inconspicuous location before using on visible areas.

Dust frequently. 

• Do not use a feather duster, because it will simply move dust around, flinging it into the air. 
• Feather dusters could scratch the wood surface if a feather breaks off
• Dust is abrasive
• Infrequent or improper dusting can create a worn, dull surface over the years and a build-up of dust, accumulated in carvings, cracks and grooves eventually becomes hard to remove, making timber look dark and unattractive.
BE VERY CAREFUL USING WATER to clean timber surfaces. 
• Timber should never get wet or soaked. 
• Water can cause swelling, warping or staining when it penetrates a finish. 
• Use coasters, pads, cloths or runners to protect against spills and water rings.
How to Dust 
Here are some detailed tips from the experts:
• Use a clean, washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton
• Best choices include an old T- shirt, diaper, cheesecloth, dish towel, piece of flannel, or chamois
• Dust cloth should have no snaps, buttons, zippers or thick seams that could scratch furniture surfaces
• Do not use a dust cloth that has hanging threads or unravelling edges, which could catch on wood slivers, moulding, knobs or other loose pieces.
Dry Dusting versus Damp Dusting:
• Many experts believe that dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will scratch and ultimately dull the finish.
• Experts typically recommend spraying a few drops of water onto the dust cloth
• Moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere to it
• The cloth should not be so damp that it wets the wood.
• If you can see any trace of water on the wood after you wipe, your cloth is too damp.
• Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood.
• Turn or fold the dust cloth as soon as dirt is visible on any section.
• Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects to dust under and around them.
Use of Polishing Products
• Although it is not necessary, you may feel free to use commercial polishing products on furniture that has a lacquer finish.  Furniture with an oil finish has special care recommendations (see instructions below).

DO NOT USE A SILICON BASED PRODUCT ON ANY TIMBER (e.g. Mr Sheen, Windex etc.)
• Do be sure to use the same type of polish consistently.
• Your furniture finish may appear cloudy or streaky if oil-based and wax-based polishes are interchanged.
Watch the Humidity
• Timber is very sensitive to changes in relative humidity.
• As the weather changes, so does the relative humidity in your environment, and in the moisture content of the timber in your furniture.
• This means that furniture is constantly expanding and contracting.
• Timber does best in moderate conditions of around 21°C-22°C and a relative humidity of about 50-55%.
• Frequent and sudden changes in relative humidity are especially bad.
• Timber is most likely to crack when the climate inside suddenly changes from hot and humid to cool and dry.
• Use a humidifier in winter and an air conditioner in summer for best results.
• Furniture ages more quickly if stored in a basement, attic, garage or warehouse.
• Excess heat and dryness can cause timber to split and crack.
• Place furniture away from all heat sources, in front of radiators, heat runs or fireplaces, if possible.
• If you must put furniture near an air duct, use a shield or guard plate to direct heat away.
Avoid Direct Sunlight
• The ultraviolet rays of the sun will damage a finish and discolour the timber underneath.
• Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the finish to crack, sometimes in a pattern resembling the skin of an alligator.
• Try to keep furniture out of direct sunlight.
• When this is not possible, reduce the amount of light streaming on any piece of furniture.
• Use window shades, drapes or blinds to block light during the time of day the furniture is exposed.
• Uniformly expose surfaces to light.
• Especially avoid letting the sun hit only part of a surface.
Avoid Heat, Chemical Exposure, Sharp Objects
• Keep solvents such as nail polish remover, alcohol and paint thinner away from timber furniture because they can harm the finish.
• Alcohol is contained in colognes, perfumes and medications as well as in wine, beer and liquor.
• Fingerprints, perspiration and body oils can harm a finish over time, especially on chairs.
• Plants and flower nectar that touch the finish can also cause permanent stains.
• Placing hot items on furniture can cause a chemical change in the finish that result in white rings or spots.
• Products containing ammonia should never be used as it will harm your finish. 
• We recommend the use of hot mats, coasters even though the finish is water and heat resistant.
• Do not leave plastic objects lying on wood surfaces.
• Colour from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, wrappers, place mats and toys can leach into wood over time.
• Plastic can also stick to a finish, damaging it when it is pulled up.
• Firm writing on the finished surface may cause indentations to the finish/wood.
• Lift, don't slide, objects on wood.
• Place objects on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to protect the finish.
• Use felt bottoms on lamps and other decorative objects.
• Avoid brightly coloured felt because its colour could leach into the wood.
Carefully Move Furniture
• Lift heavy furniture with the help of at least two people.
• Lift cabinets, chests and dressers from the bottom.  Take care not to lift a cabinet by grasping only the top.
• Sliding pieces could hurt your wood floor and damage furniture legs by applying too much sideways pressure.
• If necessary, place furniture sliders under the legs of furniture pieces to make moving easier and safer.
• If a drawer has two handles, use both to open it.  Avoid stuffing drawers with too many items.

Special Furniture Care Instructions Collections with Oil Finishes
When you receive your furniture it may be tacky from the oil finish we have applied in the studio.  The entire piece should be wiped with a clean, soft, lint-free cotton cloth.  Do not use commercially available polishes or waxes.  Wood remains a live medium and can tend to dry out over time.  For maintenance, pure, non-toxic linseed oil or any high quality furniture oil (without petroleum dryers or thinners) should be applied immediately after delivery and again every 3-12 months.  Regular oiling will deepen the finish while enhancing the natural beauty of the wood.  It will also restore the finish over scratches.  Good quality oil products are widely available in better hardware stores.  With minor care, this furniture will be enjoyed for years and likely generations to come. 
Your solid timber furniture is a natural product and may expand and contract due to varying temperature conditions, occasionally producing small cracks within or between the timbers. This is normal and often part of a piece’s character. To minimise movement the furniture should not be placed outside, in direct sunlight, or in heavily air-conditioned areas.
Solid timber needs to be polished regularly to maintain optimum condition – polishing cleans and nourishes the wood, protects it and highlights its character. When polishing, work along the grain of the timber, rub in the polish well and buff immediately, making sure you polish out all scratches. Contact a Evostyle showroom for information on polishes, waxes and fillers.

Timber species commonly used in joinery:

TASMANIAN OAK/VICTORIAN ASH (HARDWOOD)

Tasmanian Oak and Victorian Ash are collective names for timber of the species Eucalyptus  Delegatensis, Regnans and Obliqua (members of the group of Eucalypts known as the ‘Ash group’). The Ash group grows in all areas of Tasmania, except the west coast, and in parts of Victoria and southern NSW and ACT. This timber is readily worked to a smooth, flat, resilient surface. It can be stained to almost any shade and is regarded as one of the best and most versatile finishing timbers available.

ELM (HARDWOOD) 

Various species of the genus Ulmus occur in Europe, Western Asia, North America and Japan. The heartwood is a dull brown colour which is clearly defined, when green, from the lighter coloured sapwood. The irregular growth rings, together with the cross-grained character of the wood, give it an attractive appearance.

OAK – EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN (HARDWOOD)

The genus Quercus with more than two hundred separate species produces the true oaks. Most are found in the northern hemisphere where, in temperate regions, they may form pure strands or be a dominant species in mixed woodlands. In warmer countries they tend to occupy the mountain areas. Oaks fall into three groups: red, white, and evergreen or live oaks. Varying in colour from a light yellow to a dark red, this very strong timber has been used for hundreds of years in furniture making and can be stained to almost any shade.

ASH – EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN (HARDWOOD)

Ash can be any of four different tree genera from four very distinct families but originally, and most commonly, refers to trees of the genus Fraxinus (from Latin ‘ash tree’) in the olive family Oleaceae. The ashes are usually medium to large trees and mostly deciduous, though a few subtropical species are evergreen. The wood is hard, elastic and very strong, and is generally used for pieces demanding strength and resilience.

PAINTED TIMBER FINISHES

Always avoid cleaning painted timber with liquids and harsh chemicals. To clean your painted timber surface, use a dust cloth or feather duster to remove dust and debris. Removing dust is essential as dust collection absorbs and holds moisture on humid days and damp evenings, causing the timber to expand/crack. You may use a slightly damp cloth or mild detergent in lukewarm water to remove liquids that might stain, however be sure that the cloth is not soaked excessively and the surface is dried with a clean dry cloth immediately after wetting.

Rattan and Cane

Rattan or cane furniture and accessories are fashioned from the steam-bent poles of the rattan palm, a spiny sub-tropical climbing palm that grows like a vine. The outer skin of the rattan palm is peeled for use as binder cane, whereas slab shave rattan is for weaving panels and caning chair seats. The inner core is cut for use in wickerwork and basketry. It is known as reed and available in several widths, diameters and shapes including round, oval, flat-oval and flat. 
To clean rattan furniture brush regularly with a dry medium-bristle brush, such as a vegetable brush, to remove dirt build-up from between the reed strands. If very dirty, or to spot clean stains, use a mild detergent or a furniture cleaner. Take care however, as although rattan, wicker and cane can withstand moisture to a certain extent, they will become limp, loose and saggy with too much water. Wicker will resume its size and shape when it dries, but if too much water has been used in cleaning, the strands of reed may be disturbed and remain distorted after drying. 
Some rattan and cane products are sun-bleached, distressed and/or stained. Sun-bleached or distressed cane is lighter in colour and generally a little harder than a natural or dark colour cane. Minor chipping or fading of stained or painted rattan and cane can be touched up with stain-pens, available through our showrooms. 
Cane is sometimes recommended for outdoor use, however if left outdoors it will deteriorate after a few years depending on exposure to the elements. If you desire an outdoor cane-look setting, we recommend that you purchase a synthetic woven product.

Textiles

The textile materials used in the furniture consist very often of mixed fabrics. In order to improve the care and usage properties or the strength of the material, fibres are combined. Both natural and synthetic fibres are used in mixed fabrics. It is advisable to test the water tolerance of the fabric on an invisible spot. For more delicate textiles there is foam or powder cleaning agents, which clean more gently. 
Care and protection of upholstery textiles 
Vacuum clean lightly using the textile nozzle. 
Foam wash when the furniture is only slightly dirty. 
Removable coverings can also be laundry cleaned.  
Avoid:
• Bleaching cleaning agents on coloured fabrics. 
• Excessive rubbing. For example, excessive rubbing when vacuum cleaning will wear the fabric. 
• Brushing fabrics that nap. 
• Sharp objects. 
• Excessive use of water and moisture. 
• Beating because the binders of the fabric may get damaged. 
• UV light from direct sun.

Leather Care 

Most leathers generally do not need much day-to-day maintenance – periodic dusting with a soft, dry cloth should be enough. To reduce the risk of the leather drying out, keep your furniture away from direct sunlight, and direct heating sources. Keep the leather pores free from dust particles by vacuum cleaning regularly. Wipe the leather with a soft damp cloth every 2 - 3 weeks. In addition, clean the leather with a proprietary brand "soft cleaner" such as Leather Master or Pelle as required. In order to retain the softness and attractiveness of your leather furniture, it is recommended that a "Leather Cream" be applied as required. The frequency of application depends on the environment that the furniture is in but no more than 2 - 3 times per year.

Oily stains are the biggest danger to leather surfaces. In the event of stains from oils, fats, makeup, chocolate or beverages, remove any excess liquid by dabbing with an absorbent paper towel. Gently wipe the stain from the outside edges towards the centre with a clean cloth dampened with water and neutral soap. Dry the stain, gently wiping with a dry cloth. When cleaning oily stains do not press hard, as this can cause the substance to enter the pores of the leather.

Natural leathers are so called because of their natural and uncoated nature. In this regard, natural leathers may incur marks or discrepancy of colour where it has come into contact with belt buckles or studding for example. This is a standard occurrence and forms part of the leathers character and uniqueness.

Aniline Leather

Aniline leather is often thicker and softer than coated leathers. It has natural characteristics such as scoring and vein lines, which are enhanced by wear, resulting in the leather changing appearance over time.

Nubuck and Suede

Nubuck leathers have then been further processed to raise fibres on the grain side of the hide to give it a suede effect. Suede is the natural underside of the hide with raised fibres which give it a softer feeling. It is susceptible to oily stains as it cannot be protected. This product is not recommended for placement in high-use areas.

Semi-Aniline

The leather has a light colour and finish applied to the surface which reveals the natural characteristics of the hide to a lesser extent and increases the resistance to wear. This process balances out dye colour irregularities and allows a greater colour range.

Pigmented

The surface of this leather has a pigment applied and a heavier protective coating, giving a limitless colour range and excellent wear characteristics. Pigmented leathers are produced in two basic forms – Full Grain, which shows natural grain variation and all marks, and Corrected Grain, which has undergone a process where some of the grain layer and most of the natural hide marks are removed. The surface then has a print embossed on it giving a more uniform appearance.

Wax Effect/Pull Up

There are many variations of this leather. It is generally aniline dyed leather which has been given a wax or oily impregnation. This gives the leather a nice feel and affords light protection. The application of the wax or oil gives a depth of colour which cannot be duplicated by surface colour and will age beautifully over-time. These leathers are affected by sunlight and heat. They generally scratch relatively easily, but in many cases scratches can be lightened by rubbing.

Stainless Steel

The name originates from the fact that stainless steel does not stain, corrode or rust as easily as ordinary steel. However, while stainless steel does ‘stain less’; it is not actually stain or rust proof. There are over one hundred and fifty grades of stainless steel. The most commonly used in the furniture industry are:

GRADE 304

This is the standard ‘18/8’ stainless steel. It is the most versatile and most widely used stainless steel, available in a wider range of products, forms and finishes than any other.

GRADE 316

This is also called ‘marine grade’ stainless steel and is the grade, used in the furniture industry that is the least susceptible to corrosion. Many of the Evostyle Outdoor Stainless Steel products are constructed with marine grade Stainless Steel. In extreme coastal locations or if the Steel is regularly subjected to water, brown discolouration, or tea staining, can appear on the surface of products. Tea staining does not affect the structural integrity or the longevity of the products and can be controlled. Tea staining can generally be removed with mild abrasive cleaner and warm soapy water. Any minor scratches can generally be removed by rubbing with a Scotch Brite pad in the direction of the grain.

Nickel, Brass, Copper, Pewter and Silver

The maintenance and preservation of these metals relies on a few basics: keep metal dry to prevent tarnishing which can dull or destroy the surface; for homewares, do not mix stainless steel and sterling silver in the dishwasher (if they touch it creates a chemical reaction that can leave black spots on the silver); don’t use abrasive cleaners that can scratch and dull metal surfaces; unless specified for a particularly durable type of metal, avoid using steel wool or scouring pads to clean; rub metal with straight back-and-forth motions, rather than in circles, to help maintain a uniform appearance; apply metal cleaner with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth, turning the cloth frequently to avoid reusing the soiled portion; prevent undiluted liquid dishwashing detergents from coming into direct contact with metal as it can damage the finish; for ornate objects apply metal cleaner generously then rinse the cleaner with a wet sponge; avoid direct skin contact with metal as it may mark the surface and wipe any fingerprints with the correct polishing cloth.

Iron and Bronze

Iron and Bronze pieces are taken care of in much the same way as timber furniture – they just need an occasional wax. However, in high traffic areas or areas that are exposed to abnormal interior humidity, Iron may require more frequent maintenance. 
To remove any rust that may form if maintenance has not been frequent enough, use #0000 steel wool to remove the build up of rust, then rub in furniture wax with a soft cloth. Best results are achieved by warming the iron or bronze with a hairdryer and applying a good quality paste of furniture wax (please ask one of our consultants for recommendations on products). This will allow the wax to best penetrate the surface for longer lasting protection. Buff with a soft cloth and use a horsehair brush if you need to get into crevices or hard to reach areas. Ensure that you protect your surrounding furniture and flooring prior to treating your piece as rust and wax can stain.

Stone

MARBLE, TRAVERTINE, GRANITE, LIMESTONE, CEMENT

Stone is very delicate and must be cleaned with pH neutral, gentle cleaners. Acids, even the mild acid in vinegar, will dissolve the finish and permanently etch the surface. Stone is very porous and therefore it likes to soak in liquid spills. If liquid spills do occur, wipe it dry as soon as possible by blotting dry with a clean cloth. The best method for cleaning stone is to wet a clean cloth with lukewarm water to wipe the surface, and to remove any marks. You can use a very mild detergent to remove any tricky stains, but this should not occur more than once every few months. Do not place glasses on it directly and always use a dry cloth to dry and shine the stone to prevent liquids from getting into the stone core.

Shell and Pieced Agate

Shell is a natural product and so it is essential to keep away from direct sunlight, strong sources of heat or very dry atmospheres. If shell is left to dry out, its surface cracks and it becomes less resistant to wear and tear. Avoid using strong abrasives or alcohol to polish the shell, as this will destroy its natural colour. To clean your shell surface, simply wipe down occasionally with a clean, slightly damp cloth, and then blot dry.

Glass/Mirrored Glass

Glass and/or mirrored surfaces require low maintenance. A weekly wipe with a slightly damp chamois is sufficient. Glue and pencil marks can be removed by applying some Eucalyptus oil with a soft cloth.
Objects placed on glass or mirrored glass should always have a felt protector applied to the underside of the item so as not to scratch the surface. Further, items placed on the glass should be the correct weight for the glass thickness.

Resin and Acrylic

Resin and Acrylic are both synthetic materials so they can scratch/mark easily, so try to avoid placing sharp objects on their surfaces. You should also always ensure that you do not have the furniture too close to a heat source. Certain solvents can damage Resin and Acrylic, so it is best to keep your furniture away from harsh chemicals. To clean your furniture, use a mild detergent in lukewarm water with a clean soft cloth to wipe the surface down. Always rinse the detergent off the surface with a new clean cloth. Once the surface has been appropriately cleaned, dry the surface by blotting with a clean soft cloth.

Outdoor Synthetic Fibres and Weaves

Outdoor synthetic fibres and weaves are generally UV resistant, colourfast, water repellent and frost proof and are fairly low maintenance. They can withstand extreme temperatures and are suitable for use all year round. Most synthetic weaves are made from a high density polyethylene material. They have exceptional qualities, being extremely strong and soil resistant. The combination of woven fibres and frames of either aluminium or galvanised steel make the furniture suitable for outdoor use. 
Over time dirt may build up inside the weave and provide a hold for mould and algae, so it is recommended that you regularly clean your synthetic outdoor setting with soap and water. Use a soft brush and rinse with cold water. To prolong the life of your cushions, bring them inside when not in use (even if the foam and fabric are outdoor grade).

Outdoor Timbers

Specific timbers used in outdoor furniture, such as Teak, New Guinea Rosewood, Garapeira and Lyptus, carry a higher than usual oil content, ensuring greater resistance to the elements than less oiled timbers. 
Outdoor timbers change over time, with most fading and changing colour to a more grey appearance. Natural tannins inside the timber are also released over time and this ‘leaching’ may stain some surfaces. To minimise staining, hose down furniture and flooring regularly (every day or so) for the first few months. As the tannins may also stain upholstery, including any fabrics described as ‘outdoor’ and ‘stain resistant’, it is recommended that cushions are not stored on timber furniture for the first few months, until the majority of the tannins have been released. 
Avoid placing timber outdoor furniture in puddles or waterlogged areas for extended periods. 

"Nothing is less ecological than a poorly made product with a short shelf life"
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